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Sable comme la terre, ... la terre des hommes, et sable comme la couleur de la peau sous le soleil. Ces hommes et cette terre que nous souhaitons tend découvrir, sa chaleur et ses échanges.

Et enfin blanc comme l'écume, ... les nuages, et surtout les sourires à venir.

01/12/2007

VIETNAM: L'origine du Durian Ancestral...

Durian quand tu nous tiens !!! Mymy avait une legere baisse de moral apres echec cuisant de la quete du Durian en Thailande. Elle eu besoin d entendre les voix bien aimees de sa famille. Moment d'emotion... mais aussi d'espoir grace aux conseils des parents: "Pourquoi n appelles tu pas ton ami Coco pour vous aider???"
Diable, l idee etait si evidente que l on n'y avait pas pense. My saute sur le telephone, oubliant le decalage horaire, et cueille Coco a 3h24 du matin. Le temps d un grognement, et il saute dans l avion.

Non sans penser a ses amis loin de leur pays, et de ses delices. Il cache dans le double fond de son sac, un saucisson et un bon bordeau, qu il passe au nez et a la barbe des douaniers. Quel bonheur!!!

Nous decidons de ne pas perdre un instant, et entrainon Coco dans notre QG pour elaborer un plan de bataille. C'est festin, et au vu de la difficile quete qui l attend, et des periples a surmonter, Coco reprend une petite assiette de "Bo ot Tieu Xanh va Ruou Vang Do"...

C'est decide, l'ordre des operations fait l objet d un consensus general,... mais pas le timing, qui pose visiblement de gros soucis a Coco:


Il faut dire que tout de suite la, il etait sur un autre plan d attaque. On le comprend:


Se rappelant de sa promesse a Mymy, Fafa part rencontrer en secret Maitre BANG, dans le village ethnique, pour tenter d obtenir des informations sur les origines ancestrales du Durian.

De son cote, Coco pendant ce temps rappelle a Mymy qu il ne faudrait pas passer a cote des solutions les plus simples, qui sont parfois les meilleures, et propose une exploration du marche local et de ses etalages. "peut etre qu on trouvera un durian restant dans une cagette? dit-il naivement, en expliquant: Je m'rappelle une fois dans le Jura, y avait plus de Mont D'Or, et ben on en a trouve un vieux sous un rayon".
Et c est la qu en arrivant au marche, ils rencontrent l'Oncle Nquyen:


Le vieil homme entreprend de les aider, mais ne comprend pas bien le vietnamien parle par Coco: "Durian ou ca-oh? Boule a Van Pics... Pue fort Xan...". L'oncle croit pouvoir nous aider et nous ramene une grosse fiole:


A l'arrivee de My-Ngoc, qui etait aux toilettes (NDLR: oui, au risque de decevoir nos fideles lecteurs, meme les aventuriers du Durian ont parfois des besoins humains), L oncle Nquyen est tout heureux d'entendre parler un si bon Vietnamien.
Il sort les photos de famille et lui les commente:
"Ca, c est quand j avais 10 mois, dans le dos de Maman. L autre bebe, c'est ta Grand - tante"

Grand Tante????? L Oncle Nquyen perd il la tete???
Nous decouvrons alors qu il croit reconnaitre em NyNgoc sa petite niece perdue de vue. Il faut dire que la ressemblance avec la photo de l album est frappante:

Profitant de la confusion, et du reseau qu elle sent alors s ouvrir pour elle, My Ngoc s'introduit dans l armee, via le beau frere de l Oncle Nquyen. L uniforme lui va a ravir, et nul doute que cela devrait nous ouvrir des portes, a commencer par celles de la montagne, grace a la jeep du gouvernement qui nous est pretee:

C est plus qu un retour aux sources pour elle, c est aussi l espoir de la decouverte des origines du Durian ancestral. Le bonheur se lit sur son visage:


Des son arrivee au Mess des officiers, elle se lie d amitie avec le sergent Ny, a qui elle apprend a jouer au Rami.

Cette derniere, en retour, accepte de nous introduire aupres des responsables locaux, dont le general gardien en chef de la montagne du Durian ancestral. Nous touchons au but!!!

Nous partons alors (en Jeep, mais il a fallu conduire car nous n avions pas le grade de My), en direction de la valle aux rizieres ancestrales (comme son nom l indique, situee a proximite de la foret du Durian ancestral). Les paysages nous coupent le souffle, et Coco doit ralentir pour nous permettre de respirer...
Nous savions que nous trouverions un sentier dont le depart etait identifiable par un animal magique, ainsi enigmatiquement decrit: "ses cuisses pendent au grenier, mais son nez rase toujours le sol". Nous pensons etre sur la bonne voie:

C est alors que s ouvre en contrebas une vallee profonde et encaissee. My ressent en elle une vibration positive (ah!! l intuition feminine!!)

Et nous entamons alors une longue descente vers le fond de la vallee, ou coulerait parait-il la riviere Rian, d'ou proviendrait le fruit. Le fruit Du Rian, plus tard appele Durian.
Coco est surexcite et ouvre la marche. Nous lui rappelons d'etre prudent, mais son impatience de mener a bien notre quete, se revele en fait motivee par son envie de rentrer a Hanoi pour y reprendre ses objectifs initiaux ;-)
Il faut dire que dans la region, ce n'est pas vraiment la meme chose , en ce qui concerne les demoiselles:
Puis... c est la jungle, profonde et angoissante...
Mille cris etranges, dans la penombre, nous inquietent au point de vouloir faire demi tour (surtout Coco, mais on ne sait pas bien si c etait vraiment par peur. Il nous a raconter des histoires horribles pendant toute la descente, et nous le suspectons d avoir voulu nous faire peur pour rentrer plus vite aupres de sa belle...)

Alors, conformement aux predictions de Maitre BANG, le pont du temple apparait, surplombant la riviere Rian...
My est la premiere a s engager sur ce vieil edifice branlant...


Et c est alors qu apparait, sur la berge secrete, la statue du gardien ancestral.


Nous n accederons au temple Du Rian qu en repondant correctement, sous peine d'etre transformes en Nems, a la question du gardien de Fer: "Comment Lao-tseu a t 'il decrit l'odeur du fruit ancestral???"
Coco et Fafa se regardent, interdits, meduses, pris entre l'accablement d'echouer si pres du but, et la terreur paralysante d'etre transformes en nems!!!!!
Mais c'est la que MyNgoc, puisant dans sa culture vietnamienne, et son amour irraisonne du Durian, s'ecrit: "Comme la couche de l enfant que tu aimes, l odeur du fruit ancestral ne t'inspire qu amour et appetit "
Et les arbres s ecartent pour nous devoiler l'entree du temple secret:

Et la... au milieu des offrandes eternelles, sous nos yeux ebahis, et embues de larme de bonheur (enfin surtout Mymy car Coco avouera que cela lui avait rappeler l'effet de couper des oignons): le Durian est la!!!!


Et c'est un moment inoubliable entre amis, que nous avons alors partage, en pouvant enfin gouter a la merveille des merveilles. Coco en est reste tout beat!!!



Cette fois, nous allons enfin pouvoir nous reposer apres cette quete eprouvante et perilleuse.
Prochaine etape bien meritee... la Baie d'Halong.

61 commentaires:

Anonyme a dit…

toujours aussi chouette de vs suivre....
bisous à vs trois
une enviro-girl ;-)

Anonyme a dit…

Même sans être bavard, on continue de vous suivre et de se poiler (comme le durian, tout poilu).
Un etit service à vous demander : vous pourriez mettre un durian dans votre valise pour me le rapporter, j'aimerais tellement le gouter.

Merci.

MEF, grand mangeur de banane.

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Maintenant que Coco vous a rejoint pour la saga "Vietnam", il faut que je vous révèle un lieu, unique au Vietnam, où vous pourriez retrouver ma trace au sens propre: une magnifique étendue de sable, seules "dunes du Pilat" du pays. Vous ne regretterez pas le séjour dans ce charmant village de pêcheur les pieds dans l'eau : Mui Ne = une super plage près de Phan Thiet à 200 km au Nord avant d'arriver à Saïgon ! Il est encore temps de planifier cette découverte dont vous me direz des nouvelles !

Tom-Tom, mélancolique de ce bo pays

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As opposed to categorized advertising and marketing, the service provider does not pay out out any upfront price to take part: Groupon collects private data from ready customers and then contacts only these buyers, mostly by daily electronic mail, who might probably be intrigued in a distinct answer or service.

Groupon employs a large variety of copywriters who draft descriptions for the discount rates highlighted by electronic mail and on the internet web site. Groupon's promotional textual material for the 'deals' has been observed as a contributing facet to the acceptance of the website, showcasing a distinct blend of thorough reality-checking and witty humor.

Owing to Groupon's marketplace being primarily composed of feminine consumers, the offers are usually concentrated on the properly becoming, actual physical health and fitness and splendor marketplaces.

There are probably troubles with the company design. For instance, a productive offer could briefly swamp a tiny company with also several consumers, risking a opportunity that clientele will be dissatisfied, or that there won't be satisfactory product to satisfy up with the need from customers. Gap, a huge attire retailer, was able to consider treatment of 445,000 price reduction coupon codes in a countrywide offer you (even though it knowledgeable server problems at 1 phase), but a smaller sized enterprise could flip into abruptly flooded with consumers. A single espresso store in Portland, Oregon struggled with an boost in consumers for three months, when it sold shut to a single,000 Groupons on the a single particular working day it was provided, in accordance to one particular report. In reaction to equal troubles, Groupon officers state that 'deal' subscriptions should to be capped in development to a reasonable amount.

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The firm provides a solitary [url=http://nhommuagiatot.com/thoi-trang.html]mua chung[/url] for every functioning working day in each one of the marketplaces it serves. The Groupon performs as an assurance agreement making use of ThePoint's platform: if a certain range of folks indicator up for the supply you, then the provide will get offered to all if the predetermined the very least is not satisfied, no one particular particular receives the offer that functioning working day. This decreases menace for suppliers, who can take care of the coupon codes as amount reductions as properly as merchandise revenue marketing and advertising resources. Groupon can make money by preserving roughly fifty p.c the earnings the customer pays for the coupon.

For illustration, an $eighty massage could be acquired by the customer for $forty by way of Groupon, and then Groupon and the retailer would break up the $forty. That is, the retailer gives a therapeutic massage valued at $80 and gets close to $twenty from Groupon for it (underneath a fifty%/fifty% split). Or, if $240 worth of house portray answers is purchased by the client for $50 by way of Groupon, then the company receives $twenty 5 and Groupon retains $twenty 5. The customer receives the therapeutic massage, or the home portray supplier, in these illustrations, from the retailer for which they to start with compensated $forty (or $fifty) to Groupon. There are particular businesses to which Groupon to get started with did not offer its firms, which includes having photographs ranges and strip golfing tools nonetheless, taking pictures ranges have been showcased on Groupon.

As opposed to categorised advertising, the merchant does not commit any upfront cost to take part: Groupon collects personal data from well prepared purchasers and then contacts only people shoppers, primarily by day-to-day electronic mail, who may possibly perhaps be fascinated in a distinctive merchandise or support.

Groupon employs a substantial sum of copywriters who draft descriptions for the bargains featured by e-mail and on the site. Groupon's promoting textual content for the 'deals' has been seen as a contributing aspect to the recognition of the internet site, that includes a distinctive mix of comprehensive basic reality-checking and witty humor.

Owing to Groupon's sector getting mainly composed of feminine purchasers, the bargains are typically centered on the nicely getting, physical fitness and splendor marketplaces.

There are potential troubles with the organization style. For instance, a efficient deal could swiftly swamp a modest company with as well numerous customers, risking a probability that customers will be dissatisfied, or that there will not be adequate items to satisfy the need from clients. Hole, a enormous clothing retailer, was able to just take care of 445,000 discount coupons in a nationwide provide (although it experienced server issues at one stage), but a far more compact organization could change into all of a unexpected flooded with consumers. A single coffee shop in Portland, Oregon struggled with an increase in shoppers for a few months, when it marketed shut to one,000 Groupons on the one particular working day it was offered, in accordance to one report. In response to equal concerns, Groupon officers level out that 'deal' subscriptions should be capped in advance to a realistic assortment.

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